Tempi Valley & Wider Region

Description of the Region

The Region Pieria in the Province of Central Macedonia offers a unique combination of mountains, coastal planes and coastlines. It is situated just South of the capital of Northern Greece, Thessaloniki, which is the main city of the whole Southern Balkan. The Southern part of the Pieria coast line stretches from the city Katerini to Nei Pori, just before the Tempi Valley that is part of the Province of Thessaly. This beautiful part is known as the Olympus seaside, also called the Olympic Riviera.

Contrary to the typical touristic images of Greece with dry, infertile landscapes and barren, rocky islands in a typical Mediterranean setting, here you'll find an overwhelming nature with thick green forests  of chestnut trees covering snow capped mountains, numerous large rivers, fertile plains, next to Greek modern culture and ancient history formed by small mountain villages, industrious modern cities,  ancient Greek and Roman monuments, en many othordox monasteries, all set in a beautiful scenery.

Add to this the
Greek National Park of Mount Olympus, the Macedonian Protected Wildlife Areas, where the wolf and bear still have their habitat, or the Important Bird Area of Tempi and Ossa (habitat of the griffon vulture), in combination with the ever close-at-hand Mediterranean sea and beaches, and you can understand why this region around the village Nei Pori is very worthwhile visiting and not just suitable for bathing.

Mount Olympus is also ideal for hiking, mountaineering, and wintersports (see below). For walking, hiking etc you will find a lot of information on the internet, here you find a map with ideas for some trips and excursions.

See e.g. the villages Old Pantaleimon (touristic, but very picturesque with a wonderful view on the Olympus and the sunset), Pourlia or Old Poroi (quiet and more authentic with a few taverns and a hostel), Old-Skotina or Aigani. Go for a stroll over the cobble stone streets of the village Rapsani and a local wine afterwards on the central square, or  to Ambelakia and see the Schwarz Mansion Museum and a nice lunch in the village.
All can be easily reached by (rental) car and, with some more effort, by bus. You can also book a trip to the more popular destinations like the Meteor Monasteries at the local travel agencies. 
On request, we organise private excursions  ourselves to sites in the region and to Meteor, Thessalonica, Vergina etc. for groups of up to 6 people.

Worth visiting are (among many other locations) the locations underneath.


Tempi Valley

The Tempi valley is actually an impressive canyon or an enormous gorge if you like, in the same category as the Vikos Gorge near Konitsa in Epirus or the well known Samaria Gorge in Crete. Here in the region we call it the Grand Canyon of Greece. It separates the Olympus from the Kissafos/Ossa Mountain and is one of the most beautiful places in Greece.

Not only to our humble opinion, but also ancient Greek and Roman travellers like Pausanias and Livius said and wrote so. E.g. read "Travels in Northern Greece" (1835) by William Leake, or "Voyage de la Grèce" (1827) by Pouqueville. This wonderful gorge is located at only 10 km distance from Nei Pori. It is some 10 km long and just 25 meters wide in some places, while the cliffs rise up to nearly 500 meters. Have a look here, it is a must.

In the heart of the valley and it's most impressive part, there is a small Greek orthodox church called Agia Paraskevi (from 13th century AD), an important place for the Greeks in the region.  It has become quite  popular, both to Greeks and tourists.  One has to make a stop here and cross the narrow hanging bridge to the other site of the river to visit the church, descend to have a drink from the crystal clear and cold water from the well or a cup of Greek coffee under the centuries old platan trees on the banks of the Pinios river.

The present day church itself is relatively new and built in 1910, during the construction of the railway, but there was an ancient shrine devoted to the Goddess Aphrodite here many centuries ago and holy water is  still welling up in a small cave, that once was  unapproachable at this site of the gorge. The cave is still there and you can enter it  to drink some sanctified water (watch your head and wear good shoes). 

In the valley one finds the starting point of a hiking trail at the Kissafos side, leading you in 1  hour to the watch tower (see picture) above the Castle tis Orias, that existed here until 1957. On the other side of the valley there is the kleftiko (thieves) trail, leading all the way through and high above the valley with magnificent views.

This beautiful scenery was well known and appreciated, even in prehistoric and early historic times. This was the place where according to Greek mythology the God Apollo fell in love and chased the lovely nymph Daphne, who frightened asked her mother to save her and therefore was changed into a Laurel tree  to escape the lustful Apollo (in Greek this tree is still called Daphne).

This legend is probably connected to the fact that here in the Tempi valley the first sanctuary for the God Apollo was located. His worshipping started here long before the oracle in Delphi came to power and became known and famous throughout the ancient and modern world, taking over Tempi's leading role in ancient Greek religion and politics. Just outside the Tempi gorge, almost under the modern motorway bridge crossing the river, there once stood a complex of magnificent temples, which marbles have been used in later centuries to build the Byzantine bridge (gefyri) over the Pinios River a few hundred meters further North between the villages Pyrgetos and Omolion, mentioned below.

And indeed, the place is still full of Laurel trees or Daphnes. From here, a holy road called Pythias (remember the name of the priest in Delphi?) led all the way to the oracle Delphi and during hundreds of years a holy delegation was sent from here to Delphi every four years, so the Greek/Roman historian Plutarch tells us around 100 AD. Here also, the laurel branches were cut that were used for the coronation of winners of the Ancient Olympic Games.

Despite the lovely nature and the beautiful scenery, many violent battles were fought here, in or near the Tempi Gorge. The great Persian King Xerxes in 480 BC, avoiding the Greeks that were blocking the valley, managed to find his way with 10.000 men around the gorge by travelling from Leptokaria, over Karia and Gonoi, only to meet the Greeks later on in yet another more famous narrow pass way at Thermopylae (where the same thing happened, as you might remember). King Alexander the Great in 336 BC took the left hand route over the Kissafos mountain to avoid the  Valley. This path, the Alexander Stairway, still exists as a hiking trail and brings you to the village Ambelakia on the other side of the valley.  Numerous other battles were fought here, the last one during World War II, when the German second armoured Division tried to force its way South to the city Larissa through this narrow passage on April 17, 1941 (see: A. Buchner, Panzer in der Tempi-Schlucht).

Since there was no real road in those days (the National Road was only built around 1957), the German tanks even tried using the train tracks and tunnels and eventually were forced to cross the river in their vehicles, suffering great losses of both men and material. Eventually they too took the mountain path that Xerxes once followed at Leptokaria and travelled on foot and one by one around the Tempi valley, towards the villages Kalipefki and Gonni to attack the allied New Zealand and Australian forces in the Gorge from the back. This Xerxes trail also still exists, even paved in some parts.

 

The Byzantine bridge near Pirgetos

Close to the TempiValley’s exit at its Northern side, one can find the remainders of an old stone arch bridge across the Pinios River, dating back to 1727.  The local Greeks call it “Stonebridge” (πετρογέφυρο). At the Southern side of the Valley there was also a bridge across the river, near to the village Tempi, but this one was made of wood, the remainders of which can still be seen during periods with low water levels.

This characteristic kind of arch bridges made of stone is called “gefyri” (γεφύρι) in Greek and can still be found in many locations in Greece. In the region, there are other examples near Spilia on the Kissafos, at Agias near Larissa and elsewhere.

The stone arch bridge of Tempi Valley connected the village of Omolio, once an important city even as far back as the time of Jason and the golden fleece, with Pirgetos which is the main village of the municipality “Lower Olympus” (Κάτω Ολύμπος) in present-day Hellas.

The stone bridge near Pirgetos is considered to be the largest arched bridge of the Southern Balkans with an estimated total length of about 250 meter and a width (and strength) that could easily allow even a small modern truck to pass. Just the remaining parts, that still exist today, measure at least 133 meter. The (last) bridge was built in 18th century and constituted the only good connection on the North side of the TempiValley between the Kissafos region of Thessaly and Macedonia, at this side of MountOlympus, for a long time in history.

 


 

The foundation stones of the nearby temple complex of the God Apollo near the mouth of the Tempi Valley were used for it structure, reason why nothing has been found of this sanctuary which was renowned throughout the ancient world and the ancestor of Delphi as mentioned before.

The South side of the arched bridge near Omolia is not preserved well, but at the North side near Pirgetos, the almost complete bridge access ramp still remains and one of the main arches is also still standing. The other three or four big arches have collapsed. Only this left hand side of the bridge consisted of at least 9 main arches and I recently counted myself thirty or smaller arches that are still partially covered with plants and kiwi trees.

Huge parts of the main arches have fallen into the river bed that meanders for the last 10 km to the sea through the riverbank trees, amidst the kiwi plantations and fields, always flanked at its right hand side by the green and 2000 mtr high Kissafos Mountain.

The foundational stone of the bridge has been saved and can be seen in Pirgetos at the municipality building. A few years ago, the remaining bridge parts have been cleaned and repaired. Liberated from overgrowing plants and even trees, the already impressing building can now be admired again in its full size and beauty.

A short visit at this infrastructural project from an earlier Greece is really worthwhile to my opinion and one of the “must do's” of the region, next to a visit to The Tempi Valley itself, the Dion complex, the ancient Macedonian capital “a la Pompeii” and the fortress of Platamon, that was founded in the Byzantine period on a hill near Platamon where also prehistoric tombs are excavated. For pictures of the excavation pls see the very informative site https://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripwow/ta-00a7-4a88-8fea?ln


For a visit to the bridge, travelling from Nei Pori in the direction of Tempi, one turns right after 7 km at Pirgetos. Immediately turn right again and pass under the main road itself and over the railway bridge. After 100 meters at the bisect keep left and you see the bridge in front of you at few hundred meters. Follow the next country road at your right towards the bridge.

 

 

 

Meteora Monasteries


The Platamon castle & ancient city Herakleio

The Medieval Fortress of Platamon formed actually a castle-city from the Middle Byzantine period (10th century AD), built in a strategic position on the southeastern slopes of MountOlympus, which controls the route Macedonia - Thessaly. In the 13th century it was used and strengthened by the Franks. Excavations found traces of Hellenistic walls (4th century), confirming the suggestion that this position was the ancient city of Herakleion, "the first city of Macedonia ..." after TempiValley according to a source of 360 BC. The Hellenistic wall was restored by the Franks after 1204 and later the Byzantines in the 14th century, at the end of which the castle was occupied by the Turks, although it still remained inhabited by Christian Greeks. In the Second World War it was bombarded by German troops, when heavy battles took place here with the Australian and New Zealand allied forces trying to stop the German march towards Tempi and Larissa. (See A. Buchner, Die Schlacht am Olymp). 

Initial excavations were done inside the gate in 1973. Later a systematic excavation began which identified
- a Byzantine church of the 10th to 11th century,
- 10th century houses, bakeries etc
- 18th century chapel,
- Storage rooms of the Hellenistic period, 2nd century BC
- Part of the Hellenistic wall and
- Gate in the wall of Akropyrgiou two phases 14th century.

 

Website of the location Irakleio - Krania

 

The ancient city of Dion

Take a virtual tour of this great ancient city that reminds of the Italian Pompeji.

www.ancientdion.org

Go here for an embedded Video of the 2010 excavations at Dion



The ancient city of Livithra

Leivithra was the city where the renowned ancient poet Orpheus was burried and is situated only 10 km from Pori near the modern village of Leptokaria on the slopes of Mount Olympus in the location Kanalia, next to the riverbed of the Ziliana river that separates the Main Olympus from the Lower Olympus mountain. The complex consists of the city itself, an acropolis and a cemetery, with a total surface of 1.500 m2. The city was founded in prehistoric times and was inhabited during the Late Bronze Age (13th Century BC) up until the Byzantine Period. Findings from Leivithra can be seen at the Museum of Dion. Also visit the website of the Ministry of Culture (in Greek) or see some powerpoint slides of the archeological park  here

Other findings in the region
There are many other findings nearby, too many to mention them al. For example, in June 2000 nearby an ancient mountain cobble stone road was discovered and cleaned (at 11+232 km from the Leptokarya motorway exit), that once connected Leivithra with another ancient city a few kilometers down the road, called Perraivia. It was an
cobble stone road of at least 4 metres wide,that constituted a enormous technical achievement (in those days!) in the steep Olympus foothills with massive rock underground, meaning intensive groundwork and rock removal.

The Magnetic Field at Leivithra
Also nearby, you can experience a natural phenomenon at the local mountain road going up Mount Olympus. Here, metal objects (e.g. your car) actually (seem?) to move upwards!  A unique experience, you should check it out. Try to explain this phenomenon yourself (I will tell you after your visit).



Wintersport possibilities


At Mount Olympus and recently also  just behind the village, there are several possibilities for skiing and other wintersports, for example in Vrissopoules. Please See www.gtp.gr/skicenters.asp

The whole Olympus and Ossa region offer a range of winter activities like mountain-ski, cross country ski, walking or winter moutaineering. In this region, you will find slopes of simple to medium difficulies. For more advanced skiing options you can visit e Vermio or Grevena. When you book your holiday in early spring, it is very well possible to go skiing in the morning, and do some sun bathing or have a refreshing swing in the afternoon on the beach in front of our house. Have fun!

Wintersports in the Olympus region

























Tempi Valley, with traintracks, river and road


The Pinios and Tempi gorge from above in 2005


Gravure of Tempi with castle tis Orias during Ottoman Rule


Tempi gorge with new road in 1956 
 

View from the watchtower of the Castle tis Orias in  the Tempi Gorge



Pinios river in the Tempi Gorge


The 2nd main arch with 3(!) secondary arches


The first main arch that has collapsed


The northern 133 mtr ramp of the bridge













Platamon castle and the ancient village Herakleion within

 
The castle seen from the National Road


Platamon castle from Pantaleimon beach


View at Pantaleimon beach from the walls of Platamon castle.


Remains of the Ancient city Leivithra (i0 km). The famous poet Orpheas was born here.


Olympus National Park and the throne of Zeus 


Ski and other wintersports in Greece